http://www.breltech.com/links/wine David Raines, from Gordon's Fine Wines and Liquer, puts out a newsletter nearly every day talking about new wine and wine making techniques. http://www.breltech.com/images/rss_icon.jpg http://www.breltech.com/links/wine Copyright 2005 Alex Brelsfoard All Rights Reserved. en-us The Gordon's Daily Flash: Friday May 26, 2006

Robert Parker never reviewed the 1999 Sottimano Barbarescos, so I don't know if he would have gotten them as wrong as he got several of the other wines we tasted yesterday, but the consensus between Cheryl, one of our best customers for Italian wines, and myself was that Mr. Parker's reviews of the Marc DeGrazia portfolio of Barolos and Barbarescos were distinctly . . . inconsistent.

We tasted about 30 of them, a mix of 1998s, 1999s, 2000s, and 2001s, and I was surprised, when I looked them up this morning, to find that the Spectator's scores were closer to ours than Mr. Parker's were.

Of course Mr. Parker, according to his biography, doesn't actually ever GO to Italy. (He's apparently been there once.) And the Spectator's reviewer actually LIVES there. But in that same biography Mr. Parker is quoted as saying he knows Piemontese wines better than the Piemontese know them themselves.

Okay.

Actually Mr. Parker, despite knowing the wines better than the people who produce them, doesn't review Italian wines at all anymore. He's delegated that to someone else now.

But back when he DID review Italian wines, he missed the 99 Sottimanos.

Povero ragazzo.

The 1999 Sottimano Barbaresco, Fausoni, is a soft, complex, deeply flavored wine that opens with sweet fruit and continues with a layered, gripping middle. It is COMPLETE from start to finish and absolutely CLASSIC in its rich, refined and delicious flavors as well as in the expansively structured architecture of its tannins, which are fully ripe.

For all the publicity the 2000s have had, yesterday it was the 1998s and 1999s (and even the 2001s) that provided the best examples of great Piemontese Nebbiolo. The 2000s were tight and closed.

Some would say they seemed promising.

But given the refinement as well as the clear aging potential of the others it would be hard right now to argue against an investment in the 99s or the 01s in preference to the 00s.

Now here's this from our Dept. of Corroboration:

"Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni 1999 Score: 92 Complex aromas of plums, tea, berries and cedar. Full-bodied, with big and velvety tannins and a long, long chewy finish. A big yet balanced red, with lots of aging potential. Best after 2006. 335 cases made. (JS)" Wine Spectator Nov 30, 2002

1999 Sottimano Barbaresco, Fausoni $48 NET (DUE TUESDAY) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=339 2006-05-26 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Thursday May 25, 2006



Which translates, roughly, as: "Best of the Appellation - The Revue du Vin de France presented Nocolas Ragot several months ago as one of the future's young talents. Well. It didn't take him long to confirm our hopes for him. He stood out masterfully in our tastings of the 2004 vintage, with his whites as well as with his reds.

"Tasted blind, his wines regularly came in first, while the class of his Clos Jus crushed the other samples present.

"Year after year the domaine's progress is obvious, as much in the purity and freshness of its fruit as in the delicacy of its tannins. For the 2004 vintage the domaine changed barrel suppliers and it seems to have paid off! Even its parcelle of Crauzot, just replanted in 2002, produced a particularly promising white. But didn't Nicolas's grandfather call that plot his 'little Montrachet?'"

They LIKED his Crauzot, but the white they actually singled out as his best was his Champ Pourot, which they described (beneath the heading Nous Avons Bien Aimé) as: "Superbe vivacity for this white still in the midst of a promising élevage, very fine."

It was MY favorite, too, and it's also (most rare thing) a fine white Burgundy from a well sited vineyard with 50 year old vines that sells for less than $20.

The "élevage prometteur" that the RVF spoke off is in a combination of barrels, foudres, and stainless. It doesn't mark the wine with wood flavors or diminish its bright acid liveliness. It DOES give it the hallmark of fine white Burgundy: lees contact.

Ragot's wines, in all honesty, aren't as rich or as fine as François Lumpp's or Jean-Marc Joblot's. But they're getting close, close enough to say they've clearly moved into 3rd place in the village, and into first when it comes to VALUE.

2004 is a CLASSIC white Burgundy vintage, and this is a CLASSIC 2004: racy, intense, and refined. As a value I think it speaks for itself.

2004 Domaine Ragot Givry Blanc, Champ Pourot reg. $19.99 sale $15.99 NET (TOMORROW) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=338 2006-05-25 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Wednesday May 24, 2006

Okay, here they come: the châteaux that not only scored over 90 points this year, but that have some kind of track record are beginning to open. Within a week we should be seeing prices for producers with firmly established track records and not long after that we'll begin to see the blue chips.

Of the two that opened today, both have made VERY good wines lately, and both have now raised their prices into the district shopped by the peopl who travel Port Out and Starboard Home.

One has obviously done that more than the other.

2005 Barde-Haut Wine Advocate #164 (Apr 2006) Robert Parker (90-93) points "The finest effort from this estate since their breakthrough 1998, the 2005 (80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) exhibits sweet, crunchy black raspberry and cherry fruit interwoven with hints of smoke, herbs, and toasty oak. It is a structured yet powerful, rich, pure, exceptionally ageworthy Barde-Haut that should hit its peak in 4-5 years, and evolve over the following two decades." $39 NET FUTURES

2005 Haut Bergey Wine Advocate #164 (Apr 2006) Robert Parker (91-93) points "Unquestionably the finest wine Haut-Bergey has produced since 2000, this deep purple-colored beauty is a classic example of Pessac-Leognan's smoky, earthy style. Sweet red and black currant fruit, scorched earth, and a subtle burning ember/smoky character emerge from this ripe, full-bodied effort. With terrific fruit, good acidity, and high but ripe tannin, it should hit its peak in 3-5 years, and last for two decades. It is a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon." $32 NET FUTURES

PLEASE NOTE: If freight charges, tariffs, or taxes significantly change by the time the goods are shipped, there will be an extra charge per case added at the time of delivery. You will, of course, have the option of cancelling for a full refund.

Free Wine Tastings in the Main Street Store Fridays from 5 - 7 PM

May 26, 2006: Chalone Portfolio Chardonnays - Edna Valley Chardonnay, Chalone "Monterey" Chardonnay, Sterling Vintner's Chardonnay - Central Coast http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=337 2006-05-24 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Monday May 22, 2006

No other region makes red wine as rich, as smooth, as silky, and - at the same time -as FINE as Napa Valley.

Australian wine can be rich. But it's almost never any of those other things. And the other New World countries may be coming closer and closer, especially Argentina, but they're not quite there yet, not THIS far.

The 2002 Altamura Cabernet is EVERYTHING the BEST California Cabernets strive to be. It is simply LOADED with rich, sweet, seductive, beautifully detailed red wine flavors.

Like the best Olde Worlde wynes it goes beyond mere varietal expression and presents an individuality and a completeness that are unmistakably GREAT.

But it does that in a way COMPLETELY beyond the capacity of even the most precocious of european vineyards.

You may have noticed that I've featured several vintages of Altamura's (100%) Cabernet Sauvignon over the years. That isn't a coincidence.

But it also isn't a sign of any kind of special relationship between them and me or of payola or anything else except that the wine consistently makes a case for itself that I cannot refute.

It does that because this winery, unlike most California wineries, grows its own fruit. It does that because their vineyard is in the hills, off the valley floor, and because they manage it as it needs to be managed, not just the way that yields the biggest crop.

This is an expensive wine, but I'd be shortchanging you (and it) if I didn't recommend it.

2002 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon $55 NET per bottle (due tomorrow) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=336 2006-05-22 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Saturday May 20, 2006

The scores attached to the prices below were provided by a wholesaler. Those marked with an S are presumably from the Spectator, despite the column heading.

 	$/case	RP
D'Agassac (Haut Medoc)	$19	-
D'Aiguilhe (Castillon)	$30	89-91
D'Arsac (Margaux)	$21	87-88S
Aurilhac (Haut Medoc)	$15	88-89S
Barrabaque (Canon Fronsac)	$19	87-89
Beaumont (Haut Medoc)	$13	87-88S
Beauregard (Pomerol)	$40	89-91
Beau Soleil (Pomerol)	$30
Bellegrave (Pomerol)	$29
Bernadotte (Haut Medoc)	$19	85-87
Bessane (Margaux)	$24
Brillette (Moulis)	$22	87-89S
Brisson (Castillon)	$11	88-89S
La Cabanne (Pomerol)	$31
Le Caillou (Pomerol)	$25
Cambon La Pelouse (Haut Medoc)	$19	88-90
Camensac (Haut Medoc)	$21	87-88S
Canon de Brem (Canon-Fronsac)	$19	86-7
Cap de Faugeres (Castillon)	$19	88-90
Carlmagnus (Fronsac)	$20
Caronne Saint Gemme (Haut Medoc)	$15	88-90S
Chambrun (Lalande de Pomerol)	$35	90-92
Charmail (Medoc)	$20	88-91
Chasse Spleen (Moulis)	$29
Citran (Haut Medoc)	$19	85-87
Clos Chaumont (1er Cotes de Bordeaux)	$16	87-89
Clos de Lunelles (Castillon)	$44	91-94
Clos du Bourg (Bordeaux)	$10
Clos Dubreuil (Saint Emilion)	$68	88-91
Clos L'Eglise (Castillon)	$30
Clos Rene (Pomerol)	$30	90-92
Clos Puy Arnaud (Castillon)	$28	90-92
La Croix de Labrie (Saint Emilion)	$82	93-95
La Croix Saint Georges (Pomerol)	$49	90-92
Faizeau (Montagne Saint Emilion)	$19
Faugeres (Saint Emilion)	$38	91-93
Fleur de Bouard (Lalande de Pomerol)	$38	90-92
Fleur de Jaugue (Saint Emilion)	$19	88-90S
Fonbel (Saint Emilion)	$21	90-92S
Gazin (Pomerol)	$59	92-94
Gigault Cuvee Viva (Blaye)	$42	88-89
La Goullee (Medoc)	$29	*89-91
Grand Corbin Despagne (Saint Emilion)	$26	90-92
Grand Mayne (Saint Emilion)	$48	*91-93
La Graviere (Saint Emilion)	$32	91-93
L'Hermitage (Saint Emilion)	$43	90-93
Marjosse (Bordeaux)	$14
Meyney (Saint Estephe)	$28	89-91
Monbousquet (Saint Emilion)	$59	92-94
Moulin Haut Laroque (Fronsac)	$24	90-92S
Quinault L'Enclos (Saint Emilion)	$45	92-95
Richelieu La Favorite (Fronsac)	$21	88-90S
Sanctus (Saint Emilion)	$44	92-95
Senejac (Haut Medoc)	$26	*90-92
Tour du Haut Moulin (Haut Medoc)	$19	92-94S
La Vieille Cure (Fronsac)	$23	89-91S

Sauternes and Barsac
D'Arche	$30
375ml 12/c	$17
Bastor Lamontagne	$24
Broustet	$25
375ml 12/c	$14
Caillou	$28
Clos Haut Peyraguey	$46
Coutet	$55
Doisy Daene	$38
Extravagant de Doisy Daene 375ml 1/c	$17
Doisy Vedrines	$35
Filhot	$26
Guiraud	$57
375ml 12/c	$30
Lafaurie Peyraguey	$53
Lamothe Guignard	$24
375ml 12/c	$13
De Malle	$40
375ml 12/c	$22
Myrat	$32
375ml 12/c	$18
Nairac	$63
Rabaud Promis	$40
375ml 12/c	$22
Raymond Lafon	$55
375ml 12/c	$29
Rayne Vigneau	$42
Rieussec	$75
375ml 12/c	$40
Sigalas Rabaud	$47
Suduiraut	$76
La Tour Blanche	$54

* means new to the offer All prices in $US for cases of 12b 750ml All orders must be confirmed Prices are subject to change If freight charges or tariffs or taxes change by the time the goods are shipped, there will be an extra charge per case added at the time of delivery. http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=335 2006-05-20 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Friday May 19, 2006

Click here:

http://gensduvin.bettanedesseauve.com/wimpy.php

to hear a "viticultrice" talking the talk about the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux. I'd better admit that I've met Catherine Papon-Nouvel several times over the years, and I find her très bien sympas, but I can also honestly say I LOVED her 2005 Clos Saint Julien.

Clos Saint Julien is a Saint Emilion property so small it doesn't bother to call itself a châteaux. I believe it has a grand total of 1.2 hectares of land, on the plateau, just above the Pavie slope. It produced 250 cases of wine in 2005.

The blend is 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, so it's more structured than most St. Emilions, but it's cropped so low (25 h/h according to Mr. Parker) that it is also fleshy, fruity, and beautifully flavorful.

I tasted the 2005 Clos Saint Julien in the garage at Château Valandraud last month. It might have been the best wine there.

Here's the press:

2005 Clos St Julien Wine Advocate #164 (Apr 2006) Robert Parker "(90-93 points) One of the finest Clos St.-Juliens I have ever tasted, the 2005 is a blend of equal parts [sic] Merlot (80-year old vines) and Cabernet Franc (40-year old vines) produced from yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare. It is a true garagiste wine as only 250 cases will be available. The natural alcohol came in at 14.8%. A deep ruby/purple hue is followed by a striking liqueur of mineral note intermixed with sweet cassis, cherries, and licorice. Powerful, tannic, medium to full-bodied, and well-structured, it will need time in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025."

This is a little bit of an unusual offer in that I've placed an order in Bordeaux for this wine (no local wholesaler has offered it so far), but it's 9:10 pm over there, and I won't be hearing back till Monday morning.

But the wine is GREAT, it's hard to find, and you really ought to have it.

2005 Clos Saint Julien, Saint Emilion Grand Cru $45 NET (due spring, 2007) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=334 2006-05-19 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Thursday May 18, 2006

I bought a pile of Zind-Humbrecht's 2004 Pinot d'Alsace yesterday, then when it arrived today there was a salesman here pitching an Italian Pinot Bianco from a VERY good producer (I won't say his name because he's a very honorable guy and doesn'tdeserve to be embarassed) that cost MORE than the Z-H does, and . . . well you know where this is going: it was a glass-shattering slam dunk.

That was the Italian producer's top of the line by the way.

It was Zind-Humbrecht's bottom.

Zind-Humbrecht used to make a more expensive wine called Pinot d'Alsace. But that one was partly Chardonnay. And Chardonnay isn't authorized for AOC wines in Alsace. So the French government REQUIRED that that wine be reclassified as a non-vintage vin de table. It's now called Zind.

But to go along with his regional Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurz, Olivier Humbrecht created a NEW Pinot d'Alsace, this one a (legally authorized) blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois . . .

And in 2004 it ROCKS.

2004, as you might know, is one of those north wind years, one of those years with very bright, fresh, intense acidity.

But Monsieur Humbrecht doesn't bottle wines that aren't completely ripe. And the Auxerrois variety AWAYS provides lots of fat and flesh. So the net result this year is a BIG, incredibly mouth-filling wine that virtually EXPLODES with rich, round, BEAUTIFUL ripe fruit flavors balanced by a quivering bowstring of perfectly proportioned acidity.

Obviously this isn't Monsieur Humbrecht's top wine, but ANY wine from the man who may make more great white wines than anyone else on earth is still a thing to celebrate.

For $15 you won't have to wait for a holiday.

2004 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot d'Alsace $15 NET (on hand) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=333 2006-05-18 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Wednesday May 17, 2006

For the last 5 or 6 vintages Château Pipeau has been as sure a thing as there is in Bordeaux: it is ALWAYS richly fruity, perfectly balanced and even moderately complex. Moreover it tends to arrive at that state of complexity, and even finesse, fairly early, say three to four years after the vintage.

In a year like 2005, you can hold it for 15-20 years if you want to. But you'll probably find yourself going ahead and drinking it long before that.

Or maybe you can hold yourself off with the second wine produced by Château Pipeau's owners, Fleur de Barbeyron. I've never tasted this one (2005 is its initial release), but based on Mr. Parker's description (see below), it looks like it will clearly be one of the BEST VALUEs of this VERY great vintage.

Here's the press (Wine Advocate #164):

2005 Château Pipeau, Saint Emilion - "91-93 points - One of St.-Emilion's true exuberant fruit bombs, the explosively rich, intense 2005 is the finest Pipeau I have ever tasted. It even eclipses the 2000. A dense purple color is accompanied by glorious aromas of black raspberries, cherries, licorice, and smoke. It is an in-your-face, exotic, full-bodied effort that begs for attention. While not a classic claret, in terms of pleasure, few wines deliver as much exuberance and fruit. Enjoy it over the next 12-15 years."

2005 Fleur de Barbeyron, Saint Emilion - "90-92 - This 10-acre estate is owned by the proprietor of the St.-Emilion fruit bomb, Pipeau. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, it is a full-bodied, multilayered, sumptuous effort with decent acidity, ripe tannin, and huge fruit, glycerin, and extract. A big yet precociously-styled sleeper of the vintage, it will drink well for 12-15 years."

2005 Château Pipeau, St. Emilion $20 NET (due Fall, 2007)
2005 Fleur de Barbeyron, St. Emilion $17 NET (due Fall, 2007) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=332 2006-05-17 The Gordon's Daily Flash:Monday May 15, 2006

We've previously offered Baumard's 2004 Savennieres. Here are the wines he's REALLY known for:

• Coteaux du Layon "Carte d'Or" 2004 $16 NET
• Coteaux du Layon "Paon" 2004 $32 NET
• Coteaux du Layon "Ste. Catherine" 2004 $36 NET
• Quarts de Chaume 2004 $53 NET

I apologize in advance, but we will not be able to confirm orders until about 5/25/06. Because of the wholesaler's intransigent insistence on allocating wines instead of accepting orders chronologically, we will also allocate proportionately in this case instead of chronologically. One bottle orders are unlikely to be filled, except for those for the basic Coteaux du Layon. Three bottle orders may well end up being filled with a single bottle.

2004 IS a VERY fine vintage in the Loire, though I DON'T believe there was all that much botrytis. I would expect these wines to be racier than usual, and a little less fat and oily.

I would also expect them to be, as they are almost every year, and as they CERTAINLY are in years like 2004, GREAT.

Tasting today: Rhones and Languedocs (and a Rosé) from Vineyard Reseach 1-4 pm

In order to better serve our customers we are implementing a new technology to matchprovide you with information on items and events you are interested in. At the very bottom of this email is a link that says Update Profile, please take a moment to fill in your taste preferences. As your tastes and interests change we encourage you to update your profile reguraly. http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=331 2006-05-15 The Gordon's Daily Flash: Friday May 12, 2006

On a recent visit in Burgundy, I was told a certain French wine journalist needed more experience because he always gave the best scores, when judging a new vintage, to the wines that showed the most fruit and aroma the day he tasted them. More experienced tasters (and I try to do this myself) extrapolate from the concentration and purity of what they're tasting to try to predict which wines will have the most fruit and aroma WHEN THEY'RE READY TO DRINK.

Last month in Bordeaux, to take an extreme example, I found the 2004 Château Margaux FAR more aromatic than the 2005. But in terms of concentration, structure, and texture the 2005 was TWICE the wine. The 2004 had already had a year in barrel. You simply can't accurately judge the two wines by their comparative openness at this stage.

I think something similar must have been at work with the youngster from the Wine Spectator who scored the 2001 Manzone Barolos: he gave the regular Gramolere 95 points and the better, stronger, more complex Gramolere Bricat 91.

Now probably in their youths, the Gramolere IS more open and likable. But I'm sure il Signor Manzone would be amused at the idea that the best, lowest yielding, most lovingly managed section of his vineyard, the part that gives him his most concentrated, structured wine, somehow yields a significantly less interesting wine than the other parts.

But that's what the Spectator would have us believe.

The press is an important component of anyone's ability to know and understand an area of activity in which they cannot have personal experience. But in this case I think I'd go with the person who tastes the wine EVERY day over the person who tasted it once, or maybe, at most, twice.

Everyone is agreed that 2001 is a terrific year for Barolo. Everyone who studies the subject knows Manzone is a very good Barolo producer. Manzone himself says the Bricat is his best wine.

I think that should be enough to account for the 12 cases and 9 bottles we were able to get.

2001 Giovanni Manzone Barolo, Le Gramolere-Bricat $36 NET (57 bottles on hand, 96 due in 3 weeks) http://www.breltech.com/links/wine/?this=330 2006-05-12